incarnations of Lord Jagannath on earth, the entire sequence of Ram's birth till his coronation is staged as a marathon street drama. The celebration begins on Ram Navami day, which falls on the ninth day after the spring full moon and culminates with the defeat of Parasuram and the coronation of Lord Rama.
Sahi Yatra is believed to have begun in 1230 AD. According to records, in the 11th century, during the reign of Chodoganga Deva, King of Puri, many ‘ kota 's (forts), bastions and ‘jagagharas' (gymnasiums) were developed to safeguard the temple town of Puri from invaders.
At that time the massive boundary wall called Meghanada that surrounds the temple was not yet built. The forts were to provide protection to the temple. The ‘jagagharas' were the lifeline of the city. Here, young men of the locality did strenuous exercises, learned war techniques and prepared themselves to ward off enemies in and emergency.
‘Sahi' means locality. There are seven very old sahis in the holy town today on both sides of the main road and 42 by-lanes around the Jagannath temple of Puri . These Sahis have permanent jagagharas. The presiding deity is Goddess Durga or Lord Hanuman.
There is a distinct insignia and flag to distinguish each sahi. The youths practice wrestling, intricacies of war dances, wielding sword and sticks and other weapon. These sahis once defended the temple of Lord Jagannath . That is why, during Sahi Yatra, traditional weapons are taken out. These musclemen or wrestlers get an opportunity to display their strength and skill during the festival. It also boosts their morale and breaks the monotony of rigorous practice of traditional defence techniques.
During Sahi Yatra, the local amateur actors enact the roles dressed in elaborate costumes. They go in a grand procession on the main street accompanied by caparisoned elephants, horses, flag bearers, barbers holding torches of flames swinging to the inspiring and rhythmic music of drummers and a band of musicians playing clarinets, trumpets and conch shells.
Each street is assigned a different episode to enact, and the story moves from street to street beginning with the birth of Lord Rama, his killing of demons, the episode when Laxman slashes the nose of demoness Surpanakha, Maricha fooling Rama and Laxman in the guise of a golden deer, capture of Sita by Ravana, battle between Parasuram and Lord Rama, and finally the war between Rama and Ravana ending with Rama's coronation. Residents of Harachandi Sahi, Baseli Sahi, Markandeswara Sahi, Dolomandapa Sahi Kandheibenta Sahi, Matimandapa Sahi, Bali Sahi and Gaudabada Sahi take the responsibility of conducting the grand event.
Sahi Yatra is theatre splashed with colour, music and excited spectators. It depicts joy, sorrow, ecstasy and elements of protest as well. The role of the 10-headed-Ravana, Parasuram-the great warrior, and Naga dancers are the most challenging. Youths with good physique are selected for the role. They are fed nourishing food. They abstain from liquor, physical intimacy and follow a strict and rigorous exercise regimen every day to perform their parts to perfection.
The Nagas are most dashing. A tall and robust man with a prominent chest, sharp nose and sinewy arms is selected for the role. He has his face painted pitch black, dons a heavy headgear called ‘handia; worn on thickly matted hair. He has a long, upturned moustache and a thick beard. A tiger skin is wrapped around his chest and he wears anklets of bark. His tail is bow-shaped which is decorated with 20 traditional ornaments, silver, paper, etc.
The Naga wears beads of gold and rudraksha (rosary of several faceted beads), tiger nails, corals, a shoulder gear fitted with trident, spear, flag, curved knife, pots of gun powder and a country-made gun. The Naga, expert in traditional techniques of war, moves rhythmically to the beats of a martial song. Naga Saja is important in Sahi Yatra. His martial dress is said to be the remnants of a culture of how Oriya soldiers used to dress. Even Lord Jagannath is dressed once a year in Naga attire, in the month of Kartik.
The headgear of Ravana made of paper and thermocole weighs about 60 kg and his entire costume weighs not less than one-and-a-half quintals. He not only carries the load, but has to perform, dance and deliver speeches in chaste Sanskrit, faultlessly.
The young men vie for the roles of Ravana and Nagas because it establishes their vigour and skill.
Apart from awe-inspiring Naga medhas, there are dancing Durga medhas wielding real weapons, and there are other deities like Panchamukha (five-faced) Ganesh, Hanuman, Nrusingha, Ardhanariswar and enormous images of snake charmer couples, tribal couples and an old couple, who have large bulging heads.
There are nodding horses — with hollow frames into which the actors slip in and manipulate the ‘animals' to the applause of the teeming spectators. The actors wear heavy headgear decorated lavishly with flowers, flags and expensive jewellery. The drama continues for hours at a stretch, sometimes the exhausted actors are replaced with other actors.
Sahi Yatra is the most popular and spectacular event in Puri till date, after the ceremonial Rath Yatra of Lord Jagannath. The glittering festival, however, runs with the meagre contributions from the local people.
That is why many interesting and expensive items have gradually been discontinued for lack of funds and recognition. The State Government should take steps to sponsor this event and turn it into a major tourist attraction. With its myriad attractions, Puri never ceases to thrill its visitors.
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