Daringibadi: The Darjeeling of Orissa
By Mona Lisa Jena  
Daringibadi is situated in Phulbani district, and is a seven-hour journey from Bhubaneswar, the 370-kilometre distance linked by a good motorable road. En route we crossed Khurda, Nayagarh, Sorada and then the winding and seemingly endless ghat road to reach Daringibadi, perched at a height of 914.4 metres above sea level.

It was Tuesday. A weekly haat was in full sway and doing robust business. The local Kandhas with tattoos on their face and arms rubbed shoulders with the city bred. The tribals wore thick necklaces and many earrings in their ears, which had been pricked several times. They carried small knives and had tucked in flowers tucked into their hair. The young men carried bows and arrows. From forest produce and vegetables to cows and goats, all were sold at the haat. We also found ice cream vendors and other eatery shops doing brisk business.

A veteran among us rued that Daringibadi has lost its pristine charm. We shifted our destination to Belghar’s lush forests.

But as soon as we passed the haat, the government quarters, forests, the habitation and nature appeared in their glory. It was the onset of winter; the undulating pattern of uplands and valleys, the rolling hills took our breath away with their unspoilt heavenly landscape. Daringibadi appeared tranquil and aloof and serenely beautiful, with shades of green and blue. The meadows burst into bright yellow alasi (niger) flowers. White clouds sailed above the tall blue mountains. The air was soothing and cool.

From Daringibadi, Belghar is two hour’s journey on a ghat road flanked by lush green forests. Belghar is situated at a height of more than 2,000 feet. It has a quaint log rest house, built in the year 1966. The use of candles, lanterns and even joss sticks is prohibited. We lit a small bonfire far away from the wood house, and enjoyed a calm full moonlight, surrounded by dense sal forests with a perennial spring

meandering near by. The morning after, we longed to be back in Daringibadi. The lovely Ushabali valley looked absolutely fabulous en route, and then we stopped at Dasingbadi to have a packed lunch near a pebbled stream.

Half an hour later, Daringibadi greeted us from a distance. The green meadows transformed the landscape dramatically. There were plenty of salapa and palm trees. The metalled road on the rim of the cliff, overlooking the valley, was flanked by majestic patches of red pine plantations. Pinewood thrives at elevation and in a salubrious climate.

Daringibadi is situated at a height of 3,300 feet in the Baliguda subdivision. The entire subdivision of Baliguda is a plateau with varying height of 300 metres to 1,100 metres. On the southern side of the plateau lies Daringibadi. The subdivision is separated from the adjoining Ganjam district by Kalinga Ghat.

Luxuriant growth of sal forests distinguishes the place. It is infested with wild animals like tigers, jackals, bears, deer and other animals. Scenic beauty marks the place. It is not only beautiful to look at; the place is very calm and invigorating for the tired mind and ailing body. That is the reason why the Britishers chose the place as a summer retreat and fondly likened it to Darjeeling.

In the winter months, the temperature sinks below five degrees Celsius and often frost covers the sleepy town. People say they also experience snowfall occasionally.

At barely three kilometres from here is the Dolary forest, known for coffee plantation, pineapple, and silviculture. Eight kilometres away is the village of Kalinga from where the Rishikulya river originates. Every winter, devotees throng here in lakhs to have a dip during the holy Baruni Snana Yatra.

At the foothills of the hill (where the forest rest house is perched offering a panoramic view of the scenic splendours), live the Kutia Kandha tribe. They have tattoos on their body and hence they can be distinguished from other Kandha tribes. They have neat small huts with bamboo splits for walls. A small kitchen garden, a mandatory salapa tree and cattle and poultry keep them self-sufficient. They are hunters and depend on agriculture for livelihood.

How to Reach
Daringibadi is located at a distance of 370 km from Bhubaneswar. The road is via Nayagarh, Sorada, Aska and Khallikote and it takes about seven hours to reach. One has to guard against mosquitoes. The place is comfortable throughout the year, but woollens have to be carried along in severe winter.

Daringibadi has accommodation facilities with a Panthashala (OTDC run) where there are eight beds for which Rs.100 is charged per bed. With prior intimation, food can be cooked at a price. Reservation can be made on the spot or at Berhampur tourist office.
(The author is a freelance journalist and writer)


 

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Editor: Sulochana Das