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| Daringibadi: The Darjeeling
of Orissa |
| By Mona Lisa Jena |
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Daringibadi is situated
in Phulbani district, and is a seven-hour
journey from Bhubaneswar, the 370-kilometre
distance linked by a good motorable road.
En route we crossed Khurda, Nayagarh, Sorada
and then the winding and seemingly endless
ghat road to reach Daringibadi, perched
at a height of 914.4 metres above sea level.
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It was Tuesday. A weekly
haat was in full sway and doing robust business.
The local Kandhas with tattoos on their
face and arms rubbed shoulders with the
city bred. The tribals wore thick necklaces
and many earrings in their ears, which had
been pricked several times. They carried
small knives and had tucked in flowers tucked
into their hair. The young men carried bows
and arrows. From forest produce and vegetables
to cows and goats, all were sold at the
haat. We also found ice cream vendors and
other eatery shops doing brisk business.
A veteran among us rued
that Daringibadi has lost its pristine charm.
We shifted our destination to Belghar’s
lush forests.
But as soon as we passed
the haat, the government quarters, forests,
the habitation and nature appeared in their
glory. It was the onset of winter; the undulating
pattern of uplands and valleys, the rolling
hills took our breath away with their unspoilt
heavenly landscape. Daringibadi appeared
tranquil and aloof and serenely beautiful,
with shades of green and blue. The meadows
burst into bright yellow alasi (niger) flowers.
White clouds sailed above the tall blue
mountains. The air was soothing and cool.
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From Daringibadi,
Belghar is two hour’s journey on a
ghat road flanked by lush green forests.
Belghar is situated at a height of
more than 2,000 feet. It has a quaint
log rest house, built in the year
1966. The use of candles, lanterns
and even joss sticks is prohibited.
We lit a small bonfire far away from
the wood house, and enjoyed a calm
full moonlight, surrounded by dense
sal forests with a perennial spring
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meandering near
by. The morning after, we longed to
be back in Daringibadi. The lovely
Ushabali valley looked absolutely
fabulous en route, and then we stopped
at Dasingbadi to have a packed lunch
near a pebbled stream.
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Half an hour later, Daringibadi
greeted us from a distance. The green meadows
transformed the landscape dramatically.
There were plenty of salapa and palm trees.
The metalled road on the rim of the cliff,
overlooking the valley, was flanked by majestic
patches of red pine plantations. Pinewood
thrives at elevation and in a salubrious
climate.
Daringibadi is situated at a height of 3,300
feet in the Baliguda subdivision. The entire
subdivision of Baliguda is a plateau with
varying height of 300 metres to 1,100 metres.
On the southern side of the plateau lies
Daringibadi. The subdivision is separated
from the adjoining Ganjam district by Kalinga
Ghat.
Luxuriant growth of sal
forests distinguishes the place. It is infested
with wild animals like tigers, jackals,
bears, deer and other animals. Scenic beauty
marks the place. It is not only beautiful
to look at; the place is very calm and invigorating
for the tired mind and ailing body. That
is the reason why the Britishers chose the
place as a summer retreat and fondly likened
it to Darjeeling.
In the winter months, the
temperature sinks below five degrees Celsius
and often frost covers the sleepy town.
People say they also experience snowfall
occasionally.
At barely three kilometres
from here is the Dolary forest, known for
coffee plantation, pineapple, and silviculture.
Eight kilometres away is the village of
Kalinga from where the Rishikulya river
originates. Every winter, devotees throng
here in lakhs to have a dip during the holy
Baruni Snana Yatra.
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At the foothills
of the hill (where the forest rest
house is perched offering a panoramic
view of the scenic splendours),
live the Kutia Kandha tribe. They
have tattoos on their body and hence
they can be distinguished from other
Kandha tribes. They have neat small
huts with bamboo splits for walls.
A small kitchen garden, a mandatory
salapa tree and cattle and poultry
keep them self-sufficient. They
are hunters and depend on agriculture
for livelihood.
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How to
Reach
Daringibadi is located at a distance
of 370 km from Bhubaneswar. The road
is via Nayagarh, Sorada, Aska and
Khallikote and it takes about seven
hours to reach. One has to guard against
mosquitoes. The place is comfortable
throughout the year, but woollens
have to be carried along in severe
winter.
Daringibadi has accommodation
facilities with a Panthashala (OTDC
run) where there are eight beds for
which Rs.100 is charged per bed. With
prior intimation, food can be cooked
at a price. Reservation can be made
on the spot or at Berhampur tourist
office.
(The author is a freelance journalist
and writer)
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